Fashion Wise 1st Edition by Maria Vaccarella 9781848881600

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ISBN 13: 9781848881600
Author: Maria Vaccarella

and gender politics within which the crinoline skirt’s tremendous popularity developed. ‘Art Nouveau and the Symbolic Blurring of Women’s Spatial and Corporeal Environments: The Contradiction of Organic Inspiration in Fashion and Interiors,’ authored by Angie G. Dowell and Denise Bertoncino, considers how the natural world permeated women’s spatial and corporeal environments during the period of Art Nouveau, when organic motifs such as botanical imagery, fluid lines, and nature-inspired shapes, found their way into interior spaces, home furnishings, and décor, as well as fashionable attire. The chapter explores the symbolic blurring of the feminine fashioned body with the external environment. In the third selection, ‘The Fashion Revolution of Avant-Garde Japanese Designers: Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto,’ Flavia Loscialpo moves the discussion of the evolution of fashion east, to the avant-garde Japanese designers of the 1970s and 1980s, who made their presence felt on the international fashion scene. Loscialpo deftly examines how their work challenged canons about the relationship between the body and the garment that had dominated Western fashion design. In ‘Standing Tall: The Stiletto Heel as Metamorphosis of the Self,’ Francesca D’Angelo continues with the themes developed by Koos, Dowell and Bertoncino, and Loscialpo regarding the intersection of fashion and the female body. Are stiletto heeled shoes exploitive or empowering of the women who wear them? Or are they both? Through a phenomenological as well as psychoanalytic approach, D’Angelo’s chapter compares Canadian and Italian women’s personal reflections and interpretations about the wearing of the heels and finds that gender and somatic transformations remain at the heart of their popularity. Sportswear, the largest segment of the clothing fashion industry, 1 is the focus of the chapter by Ingun Grimstad Klepp and Silje Elisabeth Skuland, ‘The Rationalisation of Consumption Reasons for Purchasing Outdoor Recreational Outfits.’ The extended meanings of fashion are explored by the authors in their study of how fashion is interwoven with the Norwegian valuing of nature and outdoor physical activities. Like Dowell and Bertoncino, Klepp and Skuland understand the importance of nature in the evolution of fashion design; their chapter discusses the Norwegian consumer’s objectification of the outdoors, and the evolution of what is considered ordinary and necessary outdoors wear. Technological innovations within clothing and fabric for optimal performance in skiing, running and biking are discussed, as well as how outfits for outdoor activities are being integrated as part of a skills and knowledge set to perform and participate in outdoor activities. As fashion opens and expands its markets, the extended meanings of fashion have found expression among our four legged friends. In ‘The Dog Walk: Canine Chic, Companion Animals and Consumer Culture,’ Jacque Lynn Foltyn examines why dressing our pups has become a billions of dollars per annum industry,

Fashion Wise 1st Table of contents:

Part 1: Extended Meanings – The Evolution of Fashion

Hoop Dreams: The Rise and Fall of the Crinoline in Second-Empire France
Leonard R. Koos

Art Nouveau and the Symbolic Blurring of Women’s Spatial and Corporeal Environments: The Contradiction of Organic Inspiration in Fashion and Interiors
Angie G. Dowell and Denise Bertoncino

Part 2: The Fashion Revolution

The Fashion Revolution of Avant-Garde Japanese Designers: Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto
Flavia Loscialpo

Standing Tall: The Stiletto Heel as Metamorphosis of the Self
Francesca D’Angelo

The Rationalisation of Consumption: Reasons for Purchasing Outdoor Recreational Outfits
Ingun Grimstad Klepp and Silje Elisabeth Skuland

The Dog Walk: Canine Chic, Companion Animals and Consumer Culture
Jacque Lynn Foltyn

Women and Fashion: Weaponising and Empowering Marginal Bodies

Fashions for Women with a Future: Women, World War II and the Language of Uniforms
Alexandra Elias

‘Glamazons’ of Pop: The Enigma of the Female Military-Styled Pop Star: Kate Bush and Madonna
Michael A. Langkjær

It is the Attitude: Fashion Designs for Women with Disabilities
Elizabeth Kaino Hopper

Developing ProAesthetics: Disability as Fashion Discourse
Olga Vainshtein

Part 3: Style Statements – Good and Bad Taste (and ‘Girls’)

‘But What Do I Wear?’: A Study of Women’s Climbing Attire
Claire Evans

Vintage Clothing Cultures: The Comforts of History
Sarah Lloyd

Audrey Hepburn and the ‘Funny Face’ of Post-World War II Humanism
Jayne Sheridan

The Slut at School: Sex, Dress, and Authenticity
Felicity Grace Perry

Part 4: Fashion Performances, Representations, and Style Communities

Humour as a Strategy in Contemporary Fashion
Orna Ben-Meir

Vintage Paperback Meets Vintage Couture: How Tom Ford Brought Christopher Isherwood out from Behind the Lens
Kathryn Franklin Fego

DNA Schemas: The Projection of Schematic Constructed Non-Fictional Anxiety within the Styling Design of Fictional Character Dress
Michael Ivy (Michiel Germishuys)

Street-Style: Fashion Photography, Weblogs, and the Urban Image
Jess Berry

On the Style Site: Face Hunter as Node and Prism
Charlotte Bik Bandlien

Part 5: The Politics of Fashion – Identity, Exclusion, and Belonging

La Biaiseuse
Susie Ralph

Couture: Tool of Belonging
Julie Thomas

‘Fashion in Auschwitz’: Concentration Camp Clothing during World War II: Heretofore Unknown Aspects of Personal Experiences
Sofia Pantouvaki

Schwarz Rot Gold is the New Black
Karolina M. Burbach

Nigerian Clothing Tradition: Preservation and Restoration of Used Alaari Fabrics among the Ondo People of South-Western Nigeria
Sunday Roberts Ogunduyile and Evelyn Omotunde Adepeko

Part 6: African Fashion from Dual Directions – Representing Self and Other

African Fashion from Dual Directions
Victoria L. Rovine

The ‘It’ Factor: In Pursuit of the Commoditisation of Fashion
Nathaniel Dafydd Beard

Part 7: Marketing – From Fashion Cities and Forecasting to Eco-Fashion, Facsimiles, and Fakes

‘Fashionalisation’: Urban Development and the New-Rise Fashion Weeks
Wessie Ling

From Fashion Forecasting to Coolhunting: Previsional Models in Fashion and in Cultural Production
Marco Pedroni

Fashion Apps: Altering the ‘Fashionscape’ through Smartphone Technology
Mario J. Roman

Ecology and Fashion: Development Lines and Prospects
Ines Weller and Sabine Walter

Part 8: Taste and the Rise of Branded Cult Items – Secondary Lines, Counterfeited and Look-Alike Luxury

Re-Framing Fashion: From Original and Copy to Adaptation
Tiziana Ferrero-Regis

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